Suraj in France
- Celia Hay
Suraj GC: A Journey of Profound Learning and Inspiration
Suraj at Romanee Conti, the historic vineyard in Cotes de Nuit, Bourgogne with minimum plant density of 9,000 vines per hectare
The Maison Vauron France Trade Trip 2025 was a transformative journey - two weeks immersed in the
beating heart of French wine culture. From the elegance of the Loire to the majesty of
Burgundy and the spiritual soul of Alsace, this experience was both a technical masterclass
and a deeply personal exploration. On my journey I was joined by other wine professionals from New Zealand.
Group of wine professionals travelling from New Zealand: Left to right - Kit Sainsbury-Canham: Beverage Manager at Origine and Ahi, Jean-Tristan Debourbet: Floor Sommelier at Maison Vauron, Arnaud Bourgeois: Director Domaine Henri Bouregois, Suraj GC: Head Sommelier Park Hyatt Auckland, Michael Ormandy: Second Generation Owner: Vino Fino, Christchurch, Leah Kirkland: Group Beverage Director Josh Emmet Group (Gilt, Onslow, Oyster Inn), Tracy Grigor: Owner Arrowtown Wine Store.
The journey began with a beautiful dinner at Bakus Wine Bar in Paris, hosted by the ever-
inspiring Valérie Rousselle, owner of Château Roubine. Her warmth and generosity set the
tone for what would become an unforgettable pilgrimage.
Loire Valley
Suraj at Domaine Henri Bourgeois
In the Loire Valley, visits to Champalou in Vouvray and Taille aux Loups in Montlouis
opened our senses to Chenin Blanc’s chiseled minerality and expressive depth. A beautiful
moment came full circle when we recalled Céline’s time in New Zealand 20 years ago, trying
to sell her first bottle of Chenin from the boot of her car - now, the NZ connection lives
forever. At Roches Neuves in Saumur, the biodynamic philosophy of Thierry Germain challenged
and inspired us to look at wine beyond the glass. Standing above an 1837 underground
cellar beneath his bedroom was surreal - an emotional reminder of wine’s legacy and the
weight of stewardship. Encounters with Yannick Amirault, Domaine Moly, and
Monmousseau reflected an unwavering commitment to authenticity, while Henri Bourgeois
in Sancerre showcased precision and purity.
60 million yr old Limestone cellar of Monmousseau which is 5 kilometers long.
The epic 15-kilometre-long underground limestone caves - lit with paintings and
holograms from Da Vinci’s creations to the great châteaux of France - was a once-in-a-
lifetime experience. Etienne at Domaine Moly also spent quite a bit of time in NZ before
heading back to France - now crafting some amazing wines in the Loire. Another NZ
connection!
Hologram display of arts in the limestone caves of Monmousseau in the Loire.
Macon, Burgundy
Tastings with domaines like Bret Brothers and Cornin, an up-and-coming
superb young producer.
Bret Brothers - Maconnais
Cornin - Domaine Cornin Maconnais
Burgundy/Bourgogne
Chamirey (what a powerhouse), Etienne Sauzet with one of the
most stunning settings for wine tasting overlooking the Grand Cru vineyards of
Montrachet, pictured above.
Domaine Roux Pere et Fils
Other domaines included Camille Giroud, De Montille, Marchand-Tawse, Latour-Giraud, Eric Boigelot,
Odoul-Coquard, Ponsot, Jacqueson, Joblot, Bachelet-Monnot, Roux, and De Vogüé were
nothing short of profound.
These were not just tastings - they were immersive seminars in terroir, élevage, and legacy.
I could almost write a story about each of these superb producers and their mesmerising
wines. Visiting the Grand Cru vineyards of Côte de Nuits, including the mighty DRC, was an
unforgettable experience.
The visit to Domaine Chantal Lescure, recently acquired by Eric
Rousseau of the mighty Armand Roussseau family, added a fascinating perspective on the
evolution of Burgundy’s great estates.
Chantal Lescure, Bourgogne, aging bottles.
Chablis was a dream realised. After exploring the Grand Cru hills of Les Clos, we visited
legendary producers like Vincent Dauvissat, Raveneau, Billaud-Simon, Domaine Fèvre, and
Domaine Denis Race. These tastings were masterclasses in purity, tension, minerality, and
uncompromising excellence - each bottle echoing the soul of Chablis. It was an experience I
will carry for life.
Alsace brought its own kind of magic. At Marcel Deiss, Jean-Michel’s masterclass felt like a
spiritual awakening. He reminded us to treat wines and vines gently - more like you would
treat a loved one rather than see it as a job or revenue stream. Field blends, biodiversity,
and reverence for heritage were common threads at the biodynamic estate Bott-Geyl and the innovative Domaine Albert Mann, painting a
vivid picture of a region steeped in both innovation and tradition.
Champagne
The grand finale in Champagne was breathtaking. At Louis Roederer, conversations around
biodynamic farming and the evolution of Cristal added layers to my understanding of
prestige cuvées.
Tasting in the Cristal Room with Aïda, and walking through the house’s
history, was truly special. Billecart-Salmon offered a glimpse into the quiet, meticulous
pursuit of finesse and freshness - a philosophy that shone through every sip. Touring their
cellars and barrel rooms throughout the village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ brought the trip to a
magnificent close. Standing in the Clos St-Hilaire vineyard, learning about the house, and
tasting exceptional vintages with Jérôme Lafouge, the F&B; experience manager and
sommelier at the Maison, was a highlight of rare elegance.
Throughout this journey, we were graciously guided by our hosts from Maison Vauron - Will Brunel-Morvan and
Jean-Tristan. This trip was more than a professional opportunity - it was an awakening. This has been a
true investment in my craft as a sommelier, one that will resonate in every
recommendation, every pour, and every story that I tell.
Suraj GC, March 2025